比叡山にある無動寺明王堂で大阿闍梨様にお会いしました

無動寺明王堂

 
GWにロテルド比叡に宿泊することにした時、NHKで放送されていた千日回峰行を録画をしていたことを思い出して視聴。その後、ネットで調べてみると阿闍梨様に護摩行祈祷していただけるという情報を確認し、ぜひお会いしてみたい!と思って比叡山にある無動寺へ行くことにしました。
あんな人間離れした、過酷な業を耐える人とは、どんな人なのだろう。

●無動寺明王堂までの道のり

無動寺は奥まったところにあり、道のりがわかりづらかったです。ロテルド比叡からバスに乗って、東塔(坂本ケーブル口)で下車。ケーブルはこちらという案内図を信じて、そちらの方向へ進みます。
「本当にこの先にケーブルの駅があるの?」と何度も思うくらい、人がいない山道を歩きました。緑がきれいなので、よい散策になりました。20分くらい歩くと坂本ケーブル口に着きます。ここでトイレ休憩をさせてもらい、駅の右側にある細い道を進んでいきます。

坂本ケーブル駅
坂本ケーブル駅

 

坂本ケーブル駅前から見える景色
坂本ケーブル駅前から見える景色

ここから明王堂までの道も人が少ないので、道中、不安になりますが信じて進むしかありません。石に刻まれた案内どおりに進むと、明王堂にたどり着きました。人里離れた場所、といった感じです。

mudoji

余談ですが、私たちは車がなかったので、滞在時は路線バスでの移動が多かったのですが、比叡山内を走るバスのルート図がわかりづらく、悩むこと、間違うことがありました。旅慣れているのですが、それでも難しかったのでバス移動の際は注意が必要です。

●無動寺明王堂での祈祷

11時から祈祷ですが、日によっては他の場所で護摩行をされることがあるようです。いらっしゃる日でよかったです。明王堂の中に入ると、係の方(といってもお坊さん)にいろいろと説明をしていただきました。この時に、昼食の案内があったので参加させていただくことにしました。

祈祷が始まるまでの間に、護摩木に願い事を書いてお納めしました。頻繁に来られている年配の方が数名いらっしゃいました。
一緒にお経を唱えたほうがよいので、事前にお経をお借りして、手元に置いておくことをおすすめします。途中で、お経を見失うと、係の方がそっと寄ってきて、指で示してくださいました。

しばらく待っていると、大阿闍梨様が真っ白の着物で入ってこられました。とても眼力の強い、迫力のある方でした。
明王堂は20人ほどが入ると満員になりそうなスペースなので、護摩行の様子はすぐ目の前で拝見できます。火が燃え盛る様子や、祈祷の迫力が伝わってきました。

無動寺明王堂
無動寺明王堂

●大阿闍梨様と昼食をいただく

事前にお伺いした昼食のマナーはこうでした。

・食事中は、話しをしない。
・いただいたものはすべていただく。
・できれば、お漬物(たくあん)は1枚食べ残し、食事の最後にお茶碗にお茶を注ぎ、お漬物で汚れを取り除いてお茶を飲む。

お食事をいただいた場所は、阿闍梨様のお部屋です。私達とほか2名、計5名での昼食会でしたが、小僧さんが配膳係として食事中ずっと横に座っていらっしゃいました。ここで、お坊さんの上下関係は厳しい…と知ることになりました。

阿闍梨様と挨拶だけ済ませ、合唱して食事が始まると、マナーを守らなければという変な緊張感を持ってしまい、最初は食事がうまく喉を通らなかったのですが、徐々に慣れてきて完食できました。久しぶりに緊張感のあるお食事でした。

お食事の献立は、お肉やお魚はなく、野菜や穀物が中心でしたが、ケチャップ炒めがあったのは意外でした。お食事は小僧さんたちが作られるそうです。食事代は無料です。

●大阿闍梨様と歓談

私たちがお会いした大阿闍梨様は、光永圓道さん。
食事が終わると、「何か聞いてください」という大阿闍梨様の一言で、会話が始まりました。お菓子をいただきながらの歓談です。
恐らく、みなさん悩みごとの相談に来られるのだと思いますが、私は率先して、矢継ぎ早に千日回峰行について質問をしてしまいました。

なぜなら、私が見たNHKの番組で千日回峰行をされていた酒井さんと比べて、光永さんはお若く、体格もよく、お肌のツヤもよく、とても苦行をされた方のように見えなかった(こういったら失礼かもしれませんが)ので、頭の中が「???」クエスチョンでいっぱいの状況だったのです。

光永さんは、10代の頃から無動寺にいらっしゃって、千日回峰行をされた時は酒井さんと比べて若かったそうです。年齢ではなく、修行年数によって千日回峰行を行えるかどうかが決まるようでした。

光永さんは、千日回峰行のお話以外にも、修行のことや、お坊さんに関することなど時間の許す限り話してくださいました。どれも初めて聞くことばかりで感嘆するしかありませんでした。修行のお話を聞くと、お坊さまにもタフな体と精神が必要なのだと思いました。

振り返ると、お坊さんと世間話をしたのは初めてです。貴重な時間をいただけたことに感謝の気持ちでいっぱいでした。

帰り際には、お土産を持たせてくださいました。いろいろといただいてしまい、恐縮です。

IMG_8832
 

●さいごに

大阿闍梨様とお話をしていたとき、「こちらの世界にいればそれが普通ですから」と何度かおっしゃいました。同じ空間で、同じ言葉を話しているにもかかわらず、私がいる世界と乖離がある。不思議な感覚でした。

最後に、阿闍梨様に関するおすすめの本をご紹介しておきます。

ロテルド比叡の読書コーナーで読んだ本。
『そうだ!元気をもらいに、山の阿闍梨さまに会いに行こう。 穐田 ミカ(著)』

私がお話した、光永さんの本。
『千日回峰行を生きる 光永圓道(著)』

NHKドキュメントで見た、酒井雄哉さんの本。
『一日一生 酒井雄哉(著)』

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比叡山にある無動寺明王堂で大阿闍梨様にお会いしました” への2,880件のフィードバック

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